Make screwdriver hand tool

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When the bursera is brought to the abbey it keys many impurities, and in its unladylike kelpwort is frowsty for remaining saxs. Remember, hacksaws are designed to be a two-handed tool - using only one hand makes it difficult to get a straight, controlled cut. Only light pressure is needed to cut through the copper tube, so focus on keeping your cut as straight as possible. Once the desired length of copper tube has been cut off, I like to take it to the disc sander to clean up and square the cut end.

Copper is very thermally conductive, meaning that it can heat up very quickly. Use a pair of pliers to hold the ferrule while you press it into the disc sander. Very light touches will remove a good amount of material, and holding the copper against the abrasive cutting wheel for too long can produce so much heat that it can actually alter the color of the copper more on that later NOTE : if you have a jagged edge even after hitting it on the disc sander, a deburring tool can quickly clean up the edge so that it's nice and smooth to the touch.

There are two solid options for how to turn your blanks on the lathe: turning between centers, or turning in a chuck. With a project this small, you will have no issues turning your blank between centers. To do this, take your spur center out of the lathe and place it on the center point on one end, hammering down with a dead blow mallet to seat the spurs if you're paying attention to grain direction in your handle, the spur center side will be the butt end of your handle. After remounting this on the lathe, you can line up the live center on your tail stock and do your best to place this right in the center point of the hole that you drilled for the hardware.

NOTE : it can be difficult to seat the live center perfectly in the hardware hole, and if you're off by just a couple of millimeters you will end up turning a handle that is not perfectly perpendicular to the holes you drilled, which results in the screwdriver shank coming out of the handle at an angle. This is one of the reasons I prefer drilling and turning in the chuck.

Since I elected to mount the blank in the chuck and recess my holes with a drill chuck, I swapped in the live center on the tail stock and after tightening down, I'm ready to roll. I'll be using carbide insert turning tools on this project, as they are a quick and easy way to rough out and detail small pieces on the lathe. I begin with a roughing tool to quickly turn the blank into round. I usually start initially at a slower speed RPMs to avoid getting too much tear out on the corners. Another option here is to remove the corners of the blank on the bandsaw, disc sander, or a hand plane to get the piece approximately round.

One way to determine how round your blank is without turning the lathe off repeatedly is to lightly rest the arm of your cutting tool on top of the blank while it's spinning. A perfectly round blank will let the tool ride smoothly on the top of the piece, while something that isn't quite round yet will produce a lot of chatter. NOTE : when turning acrylic blanks, you need to have the lathe speed turned up much higher - in the neighborhood of RPMs.

Otherwise it can be very easily to get a ton of chip out. Once your blank is round, it's time to cut the tenon for your ferrule. While it's best to shoot for cutting a tenon that is the exact length of your ferrule, it's better to have a slightly longer tenon than a shorter one.

You can always sand this down to size at the disc sander after assembly, if needed. Holding the ferrule so that it's lined up flush with the tail stock end of my blank, I use a pencil to scribe a small line where the end of the ferrule is. Then I place the pencil right on that line and manually turn the lathe spindle to transfer this mark to the entire blank. I use either digital calipers or a manual inside caliper to get the exact diameter of the inside of the ferrule, and then take this to the lathe.

Using a parting tool or square carbide insert cutter, I begin bringing the tenon down to size right up to the line I just drew. It's VERY easy to cut the tenon down too small, so stop to regularly check your tenon against the calipers. Once you're almost there we're talking at most a millimeter larger than the inside diameter of the ferrule , stop there. Again, it's better to have an ever-so-slightly thicker tenon than one too thin.

Turning the shape of the handle is all about feel. Having a handle that's too thick can make it difficult to grip properly, but too thin can mean that it wont feel beefy enough to put a lot of pressure into.

Curves are always a nice detail to impart, but improperly placed ones will make the handle feel uncomfortable in your hand. I recommend taking a moment to grab some small hand tools sitting around your shop other screwdrivers, chisels, handsaws, etc and see which ones feel the most comfortable in both their size and shape.

One of the great things about turning is that you don't really know what the final shape of your handle will be until you start cutting.

The finished piece is hiding somewhere inside that chunk of wood. It's up to you to find it. Using your preferred cutting tool, remove material slowly and consider both the aesthetic and tactile shape as you turn your curves.

As you approach your finished shape, you want to determine how long the handle will end up being. Stop the lathe as you come to a shape you like, and grip the piece on the lathe. Make sure that you're pleased with the feel and comfort of the handle, and determine where you would like the butt of the handle to be.

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Download Article Explore this Article Steps. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Author Info Last Updated: October 8, Take a look at the drill. You can see the chuck key to the right of the drill.

The key has the most important role throughout this process. Remember to save the chuck and key of any electric drill that has died before throwing it away. Keep an eye out for drills with chucks that others have tossed away too.

Hold your BD drill in your left hand with the chuck key inserted horizontally to your right. However, this does not impact our recommendations. But at the recent Woodworking in America show in Northern Kentucky I revived a little excitement toward making my own tools. First, I spent a little time at the booth of Scott Meek , a furniture and handtool maker from Asheville, N.